Whiteflies, caterpillars, lice … Any cannabis grower, has heard of these parasites more than once and not very well. There are many scourges that have destroyed the cannabis crop. To deal with them, the best way is to prevent them, pay attention to the symptoms and, above all, know how to eliminate them in time. With our suggestions, we will help you today so that you can easily identify and manage them in the best way.
It can be one of the most selective parasites because it doesn’t attack all types of cannabis equally. About two weeks after the eggs have settled in the leaves, the larvae begin digging holes. It is the first clear warning that we must start fighting them.
When the larvae feed in their special tunnels or mines and eat the plant material they find in the path, you can see a kind of brown thread on the leaves. Small holes made from adult flies can also be found.
Although the leaves are not damaged, it is very unlikely that this insect will appear in indoor crops, we can also follow the path and use our fingers to remove the larva. Outside we can choose insecticides such as Spinosad, and it should be used with caution when there are no bees nearby. To eliminate adult specimens that can continue to lay eggs, nothing is more suitable for the entire process of growing adhesive tapes because they can make them adhere to each other.
White spots on the leaves are the marks left by spiders when they suck the sap. You can also see other black or yellow dots on the sides. Sometimes they will be ignored and sometimes confused due to lack of nutrition. Some people think they are other spots, but they are actually the same spider, only a few millimeters long, and the colors range from brown to red/orange. For this, it is better to hold a magnifying glass. They can also leave a kind of canvas on the leaves.
The growing environment must be clean and ventilated. Red spiders develop in a dry environment, if the temperature exceeds 27 degrees the speed of reproduction is very high. Therefore, please maintain an appropriate temperature not exceeding 25 degrees and a relative humidity of 55-60%. Once the affected leaves or plants are identified, they can be washed with a mixture of alcohol and water and sprayed with an atomizer, with a water content of at least 40%, so as not to damage the leaves.
There are several products on the market that can fight Starscream. Neem oil, potassium soap or pyrethro oil are excellent choices. Another possibility is the insecticide Ecotenona, diluted 2 ml per liter of water: apply it to the leaves to penetrate the nervous system of the spider when eating. If you doubt the possibility of eggs or adult specimens resisting the product, you need to use different others.
Caterpillars need vegetation to form chrysalis, so if we do not stop them they will soon destroy our plantation because they eat quickly. Therefore, it is important to act as soon as possible after caterpillars have taken root in your cannabis.
If you see small yellow or shiny eggs on the leaves, or small black feces, scared, because these are the two most noticeable symptoms. But the same goes for the teeth marks on the leaves. It is also possible to find rotten buds – caterpillars can penetrate them.
Once found, caterpillars can be removed by hand. It is ideal to combine this effect with pesticides produced by injecting pepper and garlic. Another possibility is to introduce wasps of trichogram species (widely used to combat parasites) or “Podisus maculiventris”, or even use “Bacillus thuringiensis” for biological treatment. When the plant begins to dry out, you need to turn it upside down to make sure that there are no residues, because the plant may remain inside and reappear in the next crop.
- Once the action is taken, they are easy to identify. From my flies to whiteflies “sisters” or other insects such as lice or caterpillars, these insects quickly act on cannabis plants and cause serious harm.
- Fortunately, if caught in advance, there is always a remedy: natural enemies such as ladybirds or handmade insecticides are possible solutions. Today we will talk about parasites that could drive you crazy for a while and how to deal with them.
Laying out sticky yellow stripes during cultivation is a good way to know if there are pests on the go, because there will definitely be insects attached to it. You can also find out if there are traces of silver on the surface of the leaves and sometimes stained excrement, which are excrement. Another indicator element is shredded leaves, which are attributed to the activity of absorption of chlorophyll until exhaustion.
Similarly, spraying Neem oil or potassium soap is very useful to remedy but only if the flowering process has not yet begun. In case you start, it is better to include predators such as wasps and Orius. These varieties will not be damaged by the fungi “Verticillium dahliae”, which usually contain organic products, so the two elements can be combined.
The whitefly sucking the juice of the leaves until the plant weakens. This is very common, but not the deadliest.
The first symptom is obvious: if you shake a plant and see flies flying, they are whiteflies. You may also see yellow leaves, which are caused by chlorosis caused by suction of the sap, molasses secreted by these insects or even whitish powder on the back.
Once this parasite is discovered it is possible to introduce wasps “Encarsia formosa” or “Macrolophus caliginosus”. Another option is to attract flies with yellow stripes or spray ink or potassium soap; these solutions must be released every 5-6 days until the fly disappears.
Another very fast pest, both during reproduction, and during the passage from one plant to another. Like the red spider, it feeds on the sap of the leaves. There are more of them in the spring, and once confirmed, you have to play for some time.
Yellow and dry leaves, colonies under the leaves or stems and molasses that secrete are some of the symptoms that trigger the alarm. Molasses does not seem to be enough to attract ants, so if you see them you will begin to doubt.
Once parasites are found you can adopt the following methods: Since they hardly move, they can be eliminated manually by crushing them. Predators, such as chrysopid larvae, that feed on them can be included. Increase by about 20 per plant and repeat once a month. Another option is parasytoid wasps, ladybirds (for outdoor cultivation) or “Verticillium lecanii” mushrooms. Finally, pyrethro plants can be sprayed two or three times with an interval of five to ten days.
It looks amazing but excessive fertilization can lead to the appearance of lice, so it must be used with caution. The climate also needs to be controlled, because a dry environment will help its spread. Also, when you notice that the fallen leaves are deteriorating, you need to remove them.
We conclude with another pest that even the most experienced marijuana growers do not know: coccyne. It can be quite inside and out. The worst part is that they are small insects (so difficult to identify) and are resistant to certain insecticides. If they take root at the roots of plants, the problem will become more serious. Not to mention their excrement, which contains fungi that destroy plants.
You will recognize them for their brown or white color and a kind of white fur. They begin to appear on the stems and then spread throughout the plant. If there are plants next to them, such as cacti, roses or olive trees, you need to be very careful. Like lice, ants are another sign of their existence.
Both cannabis and nearby plants should be checked for pests. Once found, you can use cotton tufts to mix them with equal amounts of water and alcohol to eliminate them easily. In case some parts of the factory are badly damaged, the best way is to remove them.
The scientific name of this insect is Sciaridae. It has a size of about 4-5 mm and crosses several stages of its life cycle: when it is a live larva in the matrix, after metamorphosis it emerges from the surface and becomes a star fly.
This insect loves to grow in damp environments and tends to sit on the roots of plants, this is where you need to look for it. These are the signs that your cannabis plant has been infected with the substrate: Check if someone has been caught with insect tape (yellow tape sticks to your plants). Another of the initial symptoms (and most obvious) is that you will be able to see some of them flying around the plants.
If this parasite has taken root in your cannabis crop, then these remedies can help you get rid of it. Products containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bti), which are bacteria that live in the soil and can be used as biological substitutes for conventional pesticides Neem flour: very effective against parasites growing in the substrate. Insert predatory species into the substrate: Arabidopsis (Hypoaspis geolalepumites) and nematode Steinernema feeliae Nematode.
Of the 25,000 species recorded, 50% are pests of plants, insects or other animals. Although some nematodes can benefit your cannabis plant, there are other “bad” nematodes that mercilessly attack your plant and even make it die.
- Slower growth
- Yellowing of the leaves
- Lack of vitality due to lack of fluid, which causes plants to rot
Cleaning: Replace the substrate with a new and sterilized substrate
Use effective products against nematodes, such as Laotta or Skunk Neem.
Neem oil products mixed with the substrate can help you fight nematodes.
Trichonema Prot-L is an effective biological product against this problem, it also helps to germinate plants and reactivate the soil.
Limacce and snails
Snails and snails are sticky, soft, and the length of the sticky body is between 1 and 9 cm If it is the first, it has a round shell in which molluscs live. They move slowly and leave obvious and identifiable traces of transparent and bright mucus. This plague usually occurs in outdoor crops and can be very dangerous for your cannabis plants, because these small hosts will produce hunger bites, which can cause serious damage to your crops.
- Bites on the leaves, sometimes in the form of a cobweb.
- The appearance is light gray mucus.
- Build a barrier: Add a layer of lime, fossil flour or sea salt sand to the edge of cultivation.
- Put some bait: dig a small hole in the ground and put inside a container of beer and jam, which will fatally attract them.
- It uses the take-off Ruminia predator as a biological control measure. Eliminate them manually: do it at night when they leave the hiding place to eat.